Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

From Bangkok to Singapore to Melbourne

I made it to Singapore last night, and now I am waiting at the airport for my flight to Melbourne. I have made contact with Toni a couple of times so I don't think there will be any problems getting in touch with her once I touch down. I am really excited to be heading to yet another continent, and my first time in the southern hemisphere.

Just making contact, not too much time left to wait. Sorry I have been so bad about e-mailing, I have just been having a really good time, and being lazy about making time to send a couple of messages now and then. Only 35 more days left for me on the road.

Later...Just wanted to let you know that I have safely arrived in Melbourne and met up with Toni, so all is well in the travelers world.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Well I had a fun first day in Siem Reap, home to one of the many wonders of the world Angkor Wat.

On Sunday I went to a Mountain about 1.5 hours outside of Phnom Penh, where there is a series of beautiful temples that overlook the flat Cambodian landscape. It was a day filled with a ton of hiking, free range monkeys, and dozens of little kids following me around with fans pushing each other out of the way trying to be the one fanning me the most. None of them wanted to sell me anything, they simply walked every where I did while holding Chinese fans, and occasionally using them to blow fresh humid air in my general direction. By the time I got back to the tuk-tuk to head home I had about 6 kids following me, two girls of which had followed me all the way from start to finish. I decided to tip the two of them 5 dollars each. By the time I got back to the hotel I was desperate for a little rest, so I found a place to get my reflexology done and enjoyed being pampered a bit.

I took the ferry yesterday from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, and have decided it is definitely the best way to get between the two cities. It took about 5 hours to speed up the Tonle Sap River, but the journey was filled with incredible sights, fun people, and you could literally sit wherever you wanted (which for most people meant on top of the ferry). The wind rushing through your hair, the scenery constantly changing, and a fun group of westerners sailing along the river made for a lot of fun. I just made the mistake of packing my sunscreen deep in my pack that was stored in the engine room so I got a bit of a sunburn. When I say a bit of a sunburn, I mean my face is on fire... hahaha. Luckily, though, my sunscreen (that I am now applying quite liberally) has aloe vera and vitamin E in it, so it relieves some of the pain as well as protecting from any further burning.

This morning I got up to start exploring the numerous temples of Angkor Wat, one of which is the location where Angelina Jolie filmed the first Tomb Raider movie, where she developed her love of Cambodian orphans. I joke that this place must be like a Costco to her where she can buy in bulk because the children will literally follow you everywhere in packs hoping you will buy something. I am sure if you made an Angelina offer they would sell you themselves as well, anything for a couple of bucks.

The temples here are incredible. Beautiful, massive, and so ornately decorated that all of the stone walls have worm hole carvings in them. I walked around a lot today, looking at the ruin, wondering what these structures would have looked like 1000 years ago. The place is filled with tourists, but it is so beautiful and so secluded that I didn't seem to mind too much. While having lunch in a little place near the first temple I stopped at, I met a group of kids from Australia and New Zealand, surprisingly all named Chris (well the three boys where, the girl was named Kirstin, but it is close to Chris). We all had a couple of beers together, shared stories, and decided to hike around a bit more together. By the end of our time there, we all agreed that we had probably taken WAY too many photos seeing as how there is no way to capture the magnificence of the place in any photos. But alas, we all have a couple of hundred photos of Angkor Wat, and we only visited a couple of the temples of the site.

Tonight we are all meeting back up to have a couple of drinks and experience the Siem Reap night life. I am going to go find a cheap place to have dinner before I have to meet back up with them. Cambodia is definitely a must see for any traveler. It is a place like nothing I have ever seen before, and due to its lack of tourism is a place most people will never see either.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Day one in Cambodia, a day I will never forget.

After spending a little over a week in Singapore, recuperating, enjoying the simple pleasures of family life, and basking in the high style of an expat (ex-patriot), I have left the sanctuary of distant (once removed) family and headed for Cambodia. I will miss the luxurious three story house with full private bath and live in maid, but I am sure I will return with ease to my simple travelers life. And, what a way to dive back in, discovering the wonders of the impoverished scenes in Cambodia.

I awoke this morning at 4 am to head to the airport in order to catch my 6:45 am flight to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. I took a taxi from the Ware’s estate to the airport, but I am pretty certain that by some coincidence another person on the street had also called for a taxi and I had stolen his. Why on earth was someone else calling a taxi at 4:30 am, I will never know. After getting checked in at the airport, having a spot of breakfast, and doing my duty free perusing, I boarded the JetStar flight to Phnom Penh. Other than the 1 hour delay we had at the airport due to a malfunctioning flight computer, the flight was smooth and uneventful.

On arriving in Cambodia, I had to apply for my visa, which consisted of filling out a little bit of paperwork, paying $20 (P.S. Cambodia has its own currency, Cambodian Reil, but everyone wants you as a red devil to pay in US dollars) and waiting for them to hold your passport in the air signifying the completion of your visa. After collecting my pack and making it through customs I had to find a way to my guesthouse, Sunday Guesthouse. As soon as you walk out of the airport doors, hundreds of men with their tuk-tuks are waiting to take you to your destination. How does one describe a tuk-tuk to a Westerner? Tuk-tuks are to Cambodia, what gondolas are to Venice, the easiest and was available form of transportation. Imagine a horse drawn carriage in Central Park, shrink it in half, add a canopy, and age it about 30 years. Then, instead of being pulled around by a beautiful, sturdy horse, picture it being pulled around by an old Vespa. They can turn on a dime, max out at about 20 mph, and dominate the chaotic roads of Cambodia. Driving in Cambodia must be like an exercise in mindful meditation because unless you are paying attention to EVERYTHING going on around you, you are going to die. 'Nough said. The other means of transportation (more popular with the locals) is simply paying a guy to let you ride on the back of his scooter while you prop your feet up on jump seat pegs. Many times you will see three to four people riding this way on one scooter. Dangerous, yes, but totally riding Cambodian style. I am not sure what Cambodians would do without motor-scooters.

After checking in to my guesthouse, which costs about $12 a night for a private room with a private bath, I grabbed a tuk-tuk and arranged to hire the guy and his vehicle for the whole day. Such a request is the norm here with a negotiable fee, but for me hiring the guy for a 5 hour journey cost me $25. We ended up heading out to a small island about 20km outside of Phnom Penh called Koh Dach. Thanks to some advanced research, I knew it was a location I was dying to go to, and thanks to my drivers vast knowledge of the area was an easy trek. Not necessarily a comfortable one, seeing as how the roads in Cambodia range from bad to worse, but it was easy.

After about 45 minutes a driving, we arrived at a ferry “pier” (a steep dirt ramp leading to the river front). We drove the tuk-tuk on to the ferry and headed across for an afternoon of delight. On the ferry, I was offered to have lunch at a woman’s home, roast chicken and rice. I decided, since it was approaching lunch time, that that was a great idea. So once the boat reached shore, she hurried off to start preparing the feast. On the way to her home, we stopped at another home that offered exactly what Koh Dach is known for, wand woven silk scarfs and fabrics. As a foreigner, as soon as my presence was known on the island, I was engulfed in woman offering me their fine silk creations. At one point I think I was cornered by 6 different women and 2 little girls, each wanting me to buy a piece from them. While the items were cheap by US standards, I still didn’t have the money or the room in my pack to purchase a piece from all of them, so after purchasing one silk “table cloth/drape/throw” and two scarves from the first woman to catch me, I had to apologetically decline the other offers in front of me. After collecting my goods, I got back in the tuk-tuk to head to lunch, leaving half a dozen Cambodian women cursing my name. (I actually doubt that, because they were all extremely nice, and just wanting to seize an opportunity for a few extra bucks.) Although I was leaving half a dozen women behind, two of them jumped right on their motorbikes and followed the tuk-tuk to its next stopping point.

Finally we arrived at the petite woman’s home for lunch just as she was slaughtering the chicken I was going to eat later. She laid a mat down in a small thatched hut that sat right on the beach, hovering over the water of the Mekong River, and ushered me to sit inside while I waited for her to finish preparing lunch. About this time, the girls with the scarves had caught up to me, and joined me in the hut to continue their sales pitch. I continued my polite no’s and offered them some of the fruit that had been provided by another woman. My driver (and I am terrible for not writing his name down, but I will see him tomorrow so no worries), the two girls, a random other woman, and I sat in the thatched hut for about an hour enjoying the views and having an impromptu language lesson, both Cambodian for me and English for them.

Once the food arrived, the tuk-tuk driver and I were left in peace to enjoy the delicious feast and enjoy the picturesque scenery. He taught me how to eat the food while I relaxed enjoying his company and that of the stray dogs that appeared to share in the wealth. After finishing eating and cleaning ourselves up a bit, he led me down the river to see some local fisherman pulling in the nets filled with thousands of sardine sized little fish. Once the food had settled, and I had finished stumbling around the sandy shore, we decided to head back. When we arrived at the ferry dock to wait to cross, all the same little silk weavers showed up again, trying to hawk me their goods, but this time I think they got the picture that I was not in the market for any more fabric.

We crossed back over the river to head back into town. The drive is beautiful, filled with stilted houses, elegant and massive Chinese temples, and vans bursting at the seams with passengers. By the time we got back to the hotel, I was ready for a bit of rest, so I laid down for a bit, watched some BBC World news and contemplated what my next move would be. After a while, I headed out to do some walking and find some contact lens solution (not an easy find in an impoverished nation). The streets of Phnom Penh were filled with people enjoying a gorgeous Friday night, getting ready for a fun weekend.

I met a fun couple, Aaron and Sandy (Aaron from the UK, Sandy from Colorado; Both now working in Kuwait), and spent the evening sharing a couple of beers and travel tails. The two of them seem to share in my sense of humor so it was a nice match. The three of us ended up watching Americas Next Top Model (oh yeah, Tyra has made it to Cambodia), and wallowing in the sadness that is Tyra Banks being a US representative in Cambodia.

What a way to spend a first day in Cambodia, but I think it is hard not to have a day like that in a country where the people are exceedingly friendly and the scenery is a mix of destitute and beautiful. Truly the wonders of Cambodia.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Loving Singapore

Things are going great in Singapore. Really enjoying every minute of it.

I went to the Singapore zoo today with the daughter of one of Kim's friends. Kelly, the daughter, is getting her degree in musical theatre from Lindenwood University, also in St Louis. It has been fun getting to know Kelly, she is a riot.

I feel like such an old fart here (but love it) because I am up fairly early by my standards, 8am, so I haven't really had any interest in going out late at night. When the kids head to bed, I feel like it is time for me to start heading that way too. Although, Kim and I usually have a Bailey's Irish Coffee and a long talk while we are closing up shop for the night.

After Kelly and I went to the zoo, we headed over to Chinatown and did a little bit of souvenir shopping for me and cloths shopping for her. After walking around the amazing market for a little while and gawking over the incredible swarm of old Asian guys playing chinese checkers in the courtyard, we had lunch at one of the local hawker stands. Hawker stands are a really big thing in Singapore, and I guess throughout Southeast Asia. It is a place lined with different kinds of little food stands so you can get a little bit of everything (including chicken feet) and eat it all for really cheap. Luckily for us, a young girl from Holland pointed us in the direction of one stand that apparently had the best chicken and rice in all of Singapore. It was so well known that Anthony Bourdain had formerly eaten there on his food network show. It was delicious. A perfect lunch, and only 3 sing dollars.

I spent a bit of the evening learning how to play "PURE," a ATV racing game for the X-Box. Carter was quite the instructor, showing me all the different techniques for doing tricks and getting bigger air. I ended up being pretty good and the two of us where able to beat a few of the levels (after about two dozen miserable and hilarious attempts).

Have a few things on the roster for tomorrow, so I will have another fun filled day in Singapore. I really am enjoying getting to know the city.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Singapore

Singapore is great. The weather is beautiful, and I have been having a fun time being shown around by Kim, and hanging with the family. Yesterday we had to go pick up a sculpture that her daughter, Jackie, had done. It was in a little industrial area of Singapore, and I got to see these incredible artists work on incredible traditional Sing artifacts and status. It was so much fun. My mouth was in a constant "WOW" shape. I was lucky enough to get a piece of the special wood clay that the guys used to take home.

Last night I went with Kim, her husband Robert, son Carter, and daughter Jackie to a neighborhood get-together. I met a lot of their neighbors and school friends and got to tell a few stories of my travels. Plus I received tons of tips on places to go and things to see while I am in Southeast Asia.

Today the family and I went to watch Jackie play a softball game, and Carter play a basketball game. A good time was had by all, and Carter's basketball team won, while Jackie's team nearly pulled back a win in the last inning but unfortunately fell a little short.

The food here is great, I am super relaxed, and excited by everything I see. This place is definitely exactly what I needed at this point in my travels, a little feeling of home.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Made it to Singapore

I have successfully made it to Singapore.

Wow, this place is really incredible. Plus the hospitality I have been show by Aunt Traci and Uncle Chuck's cousin Kim is awe-inspiring. Way better than the digs I have had on the rest of this trip. Their home is beautiful, they have me in their private guest room with a private ensuite bath, oh, and did I mention there is a maid. This is way out of my normal travel dwelling, but will definitely be fun to do for a few days.

Kim is great, telling me all the things I should see and places to travel to. I am beyond impressed at her experience traveling around Southeast Asia, and can't help but laugh every time this down home Texas woman says something like, "Oh, you would just love Laos. You should really go." Wow, she has been to a place most people can't even find on a map.

Super tired, with an 11 hour flight and a 7 hour time change, so I will have to write more later, but I am safe and beyond comfortable.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

A Fond Farewell to Europe and On the Road to Singapore

Well I have a couple of hours to kill before I even need to leave for the airport here in Frankfurt. Hopefully, though, I will be able to sleep on the over night flight. That would be awesome.

I have been having a great time in Frankfurt. I was fortunate enough to meet an awesome local guy, Joe, who has been showing me around the city giving me a bit of history along the way. We went to a big famous indoor market. He took me shoe shopping so he could get a new pair of black dress shoes and I did what I do best, personal shopper. We went to the Stadel Museum, a big art museum in Frankfurt. And finally he took me to a traditional German restaurant, where I ate the Tuesday special (Bratwurst, fried potatoes, and brussel sprouts). We enjoyed apple wine, and finished our meal with two apple desserts. It was amazing. Plus I got to go to one more Christmas Market here in Germany, because one can never see too many Christmas Markets.

It is a strange feeling to have my time in Europe coming to an end. It is a little ridiculous how fast it has gone by, and yet it all seems like it just happened yesterday. Leaving Dallas and flying to Madrid. Laying on the rocky beaches of the Cote d'Azur. Hiking through the hills of Cinque Terra. Sleeping on the street in Zagreb. Roasting in the Bathes of Budapest. The seven hour walking tour in Vienna. Missing a train to Prague and ending up in Poland. Being kicked out of the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican. Getting stuck on a random train platform in the middle of Italy. Enjoying a show in Bern that I didn't understand at all. The train strike in Lyon. Seeing Billy Elliot the night I got into London while my pack waited for me in the theatre coat check. Having Brazilian food in Brussels with Tarcisio. Seeing Zwarte Piet (Santa's slave, always done by a guy in black face) in a bar in Holland. Sitting in a bucket seat on the EuroStar to London afterforking over a fortune and promising them my first born child. Getting lost at a Christmas Market in Berlin. And preparing for the next leg of my journey while enjoying apple wine in Frankfurt. One can do a lot when on the road for three months.

Wow, and I have two more months left. Reading "Eat, Pray, Love" has been fun the past couple of days, comparing my journeys with Elizabeth Gilbert's. Plus it is educating me on whether I want to spend 10 days in a monastery in Malaysia. I don't know what I would call the first part of my trip if I were to write a similar book. WALK, maybe? SEE, possibly? I really haven't "eaten" my way across Europe. Although I enjoy food, I am not much of a lover or connoisseur of food. Unless I was to do a trip about eating my weight in oatmeal raisin cookies as I traversed the world, but I don't think that would be very smart or possible. I don't think the experience Gilbert had in Italy is any thing like what I have gone through the past three months. She seemed to clam down a bit more than I have. I am different now than I was when I started, but I haven't honestly enjoyed every minute of this trip so far. There have definitely been times when I wanted to turn around and go right home, but I have decided to fight on, trying to enjoy the experience in front of me. Gilbert loves food, so what she did in Italy was perfect for her. I think maybe if I was to do a journey like hers, I would have to watch theatre everyday for four months straight. I have come to realize on this trip how much I love what I do and how much I miss it. Being in London, watching shows every night, and having people to discuss it with was just an absolute joy for me. I felt at home again. I felt in my comfort zone.

The next two months will more than likely fly by. Not as much time, but just as many things to see, it will definitely go by in the blink of an eye. I am nothing but excited and feeling a bit adventurous.
Me with Sophie and Andrew (the kids I met in Vienna and ran into again on the streets of Prague) having a pint at a traditional Czech restaurant.
Nick and me in Regents Park in London. Note the cool eyeware.
Shelly, Lauren, and me at Covent Garden in London.
Me on the walking tour in Berlin. Try and find me.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Berlin to Frankfurt

I have spent the past couple of days in Berlin just relaxing and enjoying my time. I think a lot of the stress of travel finally just caught up to me the past week or so, and I needed to take a little break from sightseeing and aimlessly walking around a city for hours on end. Berlin might not have been the best place to do that, seeing as how it is such a lively and exciting place, but I decided to give into my exhaustion and simply take it easy.

Don't think I didn't see my fair share of sights, I did two walking tours, a bit of aimless walking, and went to a couple of Christmas markets, but I just didn't spend my entire day walking around. I also didn't go to any of the infamous techno or fetish clubs Berlin is so well known for, but maybe the next time I'll go.

I am slowly realizing that I am turning into a "granola lesbian," seeing as how a fun night in for me consists of cuddling up with a good book instead of going out to the biggest, loudest club. Does that mean I am getting old?

I have made it to Frankfurt today, and checked into a lovely hostel with good wifi. Calling American Airlines on Skype from the last place made me realize how terrible their wifi was, seeing as how the customer service people on the other end of the line could catch about 3 out of every five syllables I said. It didn't make for a lot of fun.

I am really looking forward to my time in Southeast Asia, not just because it is going to be warm, but I think it will be a good change of pace for me. Not as many "historic sights" to see. I did some research on activities and places to go while I was relaxing in Berlin, so I have a good idea of some of the things and places I wanted to go, plus a much better understanding of the geography. I didn't realize how close I would be to Borneo, in fact, until I saw Borneo on the map yesterday, I really just thought it was some made up fairy tale land that a person got to by flying to the second star to the right, changing planes, and going straight on 'til dawn. And Borneo has Orangutans, so I am totally going to see some awesome primates in their natural habitat. Definitely a reason to get out of bed early, sweet!

I remember Amelie's experience of putting up Christmas decorations in shorts and a t-shirt but now I see first hand why that was so incredible to her. I have definitely run across some really amazing Christmas Lights here in Germany, one that included an interesting (possibly the only good) use of rope light.

I am going to go find some dinner. I have started reading "Eat, Pray, Love" again. So it is inspiring me to eat some really delicious food.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Snowy Berlin

I just got off the phone with the people at American Airlines RTW, and I am booked on a flight on December the 9th from Frankfurt to Singapore. That way I can get to Southeast Asia but only go to places not in political unrest. Plus it is a non-stop flight, so I don't have to go back to London for any reason.

I am enjoying Berlin. I just think I will come back again in the summer. While the Christmas markets are beautiful and lovely, it just stinks that it is so miserably cold and snowy. I went of a tour of "Alternative Berlin" today, seeing all of the squatter buildings, underground art, and street art. It was a lot of fun but the 3 hours outside walking in the bitter cold were a challenge. It does make one's nice warm hostel that much more inviting. I just think I would have a lot more fun here if I was able to do it in weather that wasn't forcing me back indoors all the time. Even rain is better than biting snow. This has taught me that I should probably only move to a new city during warmer months when I am able to get out and enjoy what I discover, instead of staying indoors waiting it out.

Things are good though, feeling better, just going a little slower the past couple of days, which is fine. Today was definitely a day to sit inside, enjoy a good book while drinking hot cocoa, so I guess it is a good sign that I braved the cold to get out and discover a bit.

Later,
Due to the extra day that I will get in Europe I have extended my stay in Berlin for an extra day, so I will get a total of five nights in the city.

The snow is not sticking to the ground but cold is cold to me at this point. With Southeast Asia just a week away, I am getting antsy to get some warmer weather. I think this is just God's way of making sure that the warmer weather is extra special once I do get there. I was able, though, to brave the weather this evening and spend a couple of hours wandering around one of the HUGE Christmas markets in Berlin. Apparently Berliners are really big Christmas people, so there are about 15 Christmas markets around the city, each featuring a mixture of local food, crafts, and carnival rides. The markets aren't difficult to find seeing as how most of them are highlighted by huge ferris wheels, and I mean huge. The one at the market I went to tonight must have been 20 stories tall. Not small when you consider that it is a temporary structure only erected for the market.

The evening was filled with American Christmas Carols, flashing lights, and the smells of 1/2 meter long bratwurst cooking on the grill. I don't think you can be anything but happy when you walk around a place like that. Plus, I don't think most of the "fun houses" are Christmas theme, so the carnies simply wrapped many of the figures in Santa Claus coats to give it that Christmas charm.

Berlin is lovely, "poor but sexy" as the mayor put it so eloquently.

Monday, December 1, 2008

London on to Berlin

Friday, 11/28/08

Shelley received the package with my new debit card. It had apparently been missfiled at Regents.

I made it to London but every single one of the 6 trains I took today were late, thanks to accidents and train malfunction. I ended up being forced to take the EuroStar again. This time it was 230 euros for a bucket seat. Most of the ride I had to stand. Oh, and it was delayed 90 minutes thanks to a train breaking down inside the Chunnel. What a day!

Monday, 12/01/08
Today I'm flying to Berlin. Will post more from there.