Monday, November 10, 2008

Paris, France

I am going to type as fast as my little fingers can, on a French keyboard.

I am loving Paris, I just wish I had an extra day or so here, although I don't think my pocket book could withstand the blow. I got in LATE on Saturday and went straight to the hostel. By the time I got to the hostel, St Christopher's, I was ready for a good nights sleep and an antacid, make that two antacids.

The next morning I got up, well rested, had a bit of breakfast, and decided to start my time in Paris at the Arch de Triomphe. Not totally centrally located, but a pretty good starting place. Then I walked to the Eiffel Tower which is currently lit blue at night and has six stars on the side in honor of the fact the France is the current home to the President of the European Union. The blue lighting only lasts from July to January, so it was fun to be here and see it lit up like a Disney castle. On my way to the Eiffel Tower, I was stopped by a gentleman in a car who I assumed needed directions. My normal reply to such a questioning is to say "what" and hold my arms up in a dramatic shrug. But this guy spoke English. It turned out, after several minutes and him "offering" me some "Louis Vuitton" jackets, that he just wanted money. I regretted to inform him that I was by no means a wealthy American. He persisted to ask me for money, so after I returned to him the bag filled with the coats, I opened my wallet for him, and I kid you not, moths flew out. Finally I just walked away as he was asking me to go to an ATM.

I have to admit that panhandling in Paris has become an artful menagerie of cons. A very similar thing occurred to me at the Eiffel Tower. This time it was a young boy put a ring in my hand that he had just picked up off the ground and told me it was good luck and I should keep it. So I took it and as I walked away he asked for a couple of Euros so he could get a cafe. The kid looked about 10 years old and I am not familiar with all French customs, but I wanted to say to him, "You are too young to drink coffee." When I forcefully put the ring back in him palm and said I had no money, he proceeded to tell me to "F*** off" and spit at my feet. I have no idea, but being told by a ten year old to "F*** off" put a really big smile on my face. I guess I just thought it was funny, but I was so impressed at how creative he was at making a couple of extra bucks from a rich tourist. Unfortunately for him, I just wasn't a rich tourist, although I am an easier target because I am alone. It just taught me that NOTHING in Paris is free.

After my visit to the Eiffel Tower, I decided to go on a free (except for the tip at the end) walking tour of Paris. There is a company called "New Europe Tours" (neweuropetours.eu) that has started doing free walking tours all over the continent. I had heard good things so I thought it would be a fun way to see some sights, get some history, and meet some people. My own problem with Paris is its lack of Tourist Information offices so I also thought the tour might be a good way for me to get some more info on other things I was trying to do. The tour was great, I met some nice people, and got all the info I wanted. My main question being "Where are the catacombs?"

I REALLY wanted to do the Catacombs of Paris, so once I had the information that I needed, I headed straight to the metro stop in order to at least find out the Catacombs hours. Unfortunately, it was closed by the time Sauv, the South African kid I was hanging out with after the tour, and I got there. We noted the hours of operation, 10am to 5pm, and decided to meet back there in the morning right at 10. I spent the rest of the evening walking to the Sacre Coure, all 264 steps (yes I counted), hanging out in the artists square observing the really good and the unfortunately not so good artists doing portraits of anyone willing to sit still for 20 minutes. It reminded me of the last time I was in Paris six years ago. Then I walked to the Moulin Rouge and marveled at all of the topless and bottomless bars around the red light district of Paris.

Today when I got to the Catacombs, I was a few minutes late, and unfortunately Sauv and I had neglected to note that they were closed on Monday, so I missed the Catacombs and due to my tardiness, I missed Sauv. So instead I went to the Louvre for several hours, the Pompeidu and did a bit more walking around the city. Now I am doing a bit of planning on how to get to London tomorrow.

On a HILARIOUS note, I just (as in 2 minutes ago, as I was typing this e-mail) ran into Andrew, who I hung out with in Vienna and randomly ran into on the streets of Prague, again, in Paris. That makes two random run ins to him. That is a record for me.

Friday, November 7, 2008

Tours, France

I have successfully made it to Tours although it was a bit of an ordeal seeing as how some of the French train employees were on strike. I left for Lyon at 10am and got there in plenty of time to get on the 1:26 train that I was supposed to get on in order to make it to Tours at 4:30. I was going to have to make one other train switch just outside of Tours, but it was going to be very easy. I wasn't able to buy all of my train reservations in Geneva like I had planned so when I got to Lyon my first order of business was to find the ticket office. This is when I discovered the strike occurring.

The line in the ticket office was the longest I had seen since Barcelona, but I knew I had no other option, so I started to wait. When I finally got to the front of the line, the train I was trying to catch left in 5 minutes. I did my best to hurry along the reservation process and run to get the train but as I got to the top of the stairs on the platform the train was closing its doors and pulling out of the station. Set back number 1, achieved.

The next step was to go back into the ticket office, wait in the line again, and find another train to get me to Tours. This time the line was a little shorter, but once I was to the front of I was informed the next way from me to get to Tours was a train to Paris-a train that left in three hours at 5pm. So I started to wait. Finally the three hours had passed and I got on the train to Paris. Now, set back number 2. The train to Paris was half an hour late arriving. I did have about an hour between arrival and departure but I didn't mention yet that I was going to have to switch stations in Paris. Switching terminals at an airport is one thing, but in Paris I was going to have to use the metro (switching lines at one point) in order to get my train to Tours. Having an hour would have been great but with the late train I only had about 30 minutes. At first I couldn't find the metro because it ended up being a much larger station than I had anticipated. But I ended up making it to the other station, hopping on my train just as it closed its doors. Amazing!

I was scheduled to arrive in Tours just after 10pm and according to the directions I had to the hotel, it was a ten minute walk from the station so I would arrive at the hotel right around 10:30. Just in time for a great night's sleep. Finally, set back number 3. I made it all the way from the train station to my hotel (which in Tours is actually a hotel and not a hostel) only to discover that my hotel was closed. I rang the bell a number of times in hopes that someone might still be there but to no avail. Finally I decided to walk down the block to the hotel that appeared to still be open, although it was also a hotel that also cost 4 times my budget. Somehow my hotel had made me a reservation there and had paid for my stay there. So in the end, all of the set backs I was confronted with ended with a "free" night stay in a three star hotel with a private room with a private bath... amazing. Today I ended up taking the opportunity to simply enjoy a relaxing day and catch up on some much needed rest.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Geneva, Switzerland

Made it to Geneva yesterday, and was easily able to meet up with my friend at the train station. We had originally planned to meet at the Tourism Office at the train station, but when I arrived in Geneva I found out that there was in fact no office of Tourism in the Geneva train station. So I just made sure to be sitting in a high traffic area and strategically stuck my legs out into the walkway so people would have to walk around me. This was intended to draw attention to myself, making it easier for me to find. It is the trick of panhandlers on the side of the road and they are hard to miss. With my strategy I was an easy target for my friend, Hannah to spot.

Hannah lives with three other girls in Geneva, two girls from St Louis, and one girl from Seattle. Once I was settled in and had a shower, we all went out to a local restaurant for some amazing hamburgers. After a fantastic dinner, we all made it to a Mexican bar/restaurant in Geneva. It was so much fun to go to a Tex Mex establishment in Switzerland, something that you don’t normally get to see, and definitely something that you don’t get from Lonely Planet.

Because of the big election, Webster had set up a viewing center in the large meeting room on the first floor of the dorms so that students could watch CNN live and get immediate updates on the polls. The festivities, which included free hotdogs and beer, started at 2 am GMT +1 and ended at 8 am. It was such a neat experience to literally stay up through the night trying to watch and see what is happening half a world away. There was definitely a huge sigh of relief when the West Coast polls closed and Obama was officially projected the winner of the presidential election. We got the news around 5 am and after that I was so tired I had to go to bed so I wasn’t able to hear the remarks from the two candidates until today. I read all of the facebook status changes that my friends posted through the evening. Most of the reactions I read on facebook were positive and hopeful, but a lot of people that I went to high school with surprised me with their disgustingly negative remarks on the outcome. Things like “I still believe God has a plan for us, and if it takes 4 years in hell for Americans to wake up, that is what we must suffer through.” WOW…. I nearly deleted this person as my friend because of the incredibly hateful words this person wrote. But then I had to stop myself and say, ‘If McCain had won, a lot of my liberal friends would have written similarly dreadful things.’ Just because someone’s opinions or beliefs are different then mine doesn’t make that person wrong. McCain was a strong candidate and a worthy opponent in the candidacy. I personally did not have that many problems with McCain himself, he has done many things for this country, and I look at what he did as a prisoner of war, and think of the position he would take in the economic crisis, leaving no one behind. But that is all politics.

I really am not the best person to discuss politics, though. I am a world away and am a real Maverick when it comes to a lot of my political and social views, and I will never be able to solve the economic crisis. I have come to accept the economic freefall of America as inevitability, and so I am not terribly afraid of it. Talk about a change. Obama has promised change in the U.S. and there is no change greater than people lining up on streets with soup bowls hoping that the food will last long enough for them to get some. That would be a huge change in society, but is that the change you want? Be specific, be open, and be respectful. Until we all master those things, the changes in America’s future are not going to be good ones. Well I have been allowed yet another rant.

I have been receiving messages from a lot of the people I have met along the way congratulating me on the Obama win which I think is a little weird, but I accept it in the way it was meant. Tomorrow I am heading to Tours, France, a bit of a divergence from my plan of heading to Lyon, but I couldn’t find a cheap place to stay in Lyon. The beauty of this trip is that plans change everyday and I have accepted that. Peace and Good Luck.


More Pictures from the Trip
candles in the duomo in Florence Florence at night A lucky statue of a boar in Florence, you were supposed to touch his snout
The Bern Bear Bern skyline with the alps in the distance

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Lausanne, Switzerland

Things are going well in Switzerland. I made it to Lausanne this afternoon, and decided (Since it is a bit of a bus ride back to town) to enjoy a calm, peaceful afternoon. The hostel is very near the lake, so I got out my book, walked to the beach and sat for much of the afternoon reading and enjoying the view of the misty Alps reigning over the glassy water. It was perfect! The weather here, now that I am out of the mountains, is much warmer making it possible for me to return to my loving flip-flops while I walked.

I am not, however, in love with Swiss hostels. There is sort of a monopoly of sorts over youth hostels in Switzerland. They are all operated or members of Youth Hostels International. Basically it means that they are all HUGE, have a restaurant, and are more expensive than normal hostels. The thing is that, because of their size, they are really popular with family vacationers so there are lots of small children around. This tends to make it a bit harder to meet people. But I am simply using this solace to enjoy the view, observing more than participating. Which on the up side is also a lot cheaper than participating. It is also nice to have a couple of lazy days in a row...it is almost a vacation within a vacation. Although, I have stopped using the word "vacation" when I describe my travels. This trip is less about time off and more about opening up to new discoveries and ideas. I just don't think I will ever grow to accept cooked mushrooms, though. I eat them, but not with great pleasure, hell without any pleasure. Even in my most starved moments, I look at cooked mushrooms on a pizza and think "I need the nutrients, but I will never be able to desire that texture." Alas, why I only eat mushrooms in salads when home.

I only have a few more chapters left in the book I am reading, "Random Acts of Heroic Love," given to me by Jules in Poland. I think I will try to finish it tonight before bed. I believe that is the 4th book I have finished on this trip. Not too bad for someone that can barely make it through a "Where's Waldo" without shelving it.

On Tuesday I am meeting up with a friend living in Geneva, so I get two free nights of accommodation there... YAH!!!

Here are some pictures from earlier stops.
From atop on of the spires at Sagrada Familia in Barcelona

Nadia and Ariane, from Canada, in Italy trying to enjoy the beach on a rainy day
Realto Bridge in Venice

Skyline of Zagreb
Jules pumping water out of a public well in Warsaw
Parliament in Budapest

St James Church in PragueThe Charles Bridge in Prague. Taken from my boat tour.
Me with one of the members of the Viennese Boys Choir. Trying to decide what to eat for brunch in Vienna. I had the club sandwich, safe and delicious.Hoppsburg's Winter Palace in Vienna. You might recognize the big balcony in the center as where Hitler delivered his first public speech in Austria
Me standing at the top of the Spanish Steps in Rome
Inside the Pantheon in Rome
The Floor of the Pantheon (Inserted for nostalgia)

Saturday, November 1, 2008

Bern, Switzerland via Zurich

I spent one night in Zurich and saw a few of the sights.

I have made it to Bern and having a good time. Yesterday I did a little bit of walking around, tried to go to the Swiss Theatre Museum but I was closed when I finally got there. I am however getting used to walking up and down hills. I decided to not have a crazy Halloween. Instead I stayed in the hostel and caught up on some much needed reading and sleep. I did "crash" the party that was going on in the hostel. Three men were having a joint birthday party, so after the festivities had died down a bit, I snuck in and had a slice of birthday cake. I don't think anyone noticed or cared since there were three cakes and all three of them were only half eaten.

Today I got up and did the recommended walking tour of Bern and got to see the Bear Pit. There was only one bear in the pit, but boy was he entertaining. They must train him to pose for pictures. I was expecting more bears to be there, though. With a name like "Bear Pit" I was expecting to see a violent amount of bears in the pit, you know something that PETA would protest against. I also got to see the big clock tower in the center of town.

I have discovered that I am a big fan of Swiss food. Yesterday I ate at one traditional Swiss restaurant and had a dish that I cannot name but describe simply as what God would eat for breakfast. It was hashbrowns covered with cheese, topped with a mixture of fried onions and cubed ham, and finished with a sunny side up egg capping the mass of food. I thought it was going to be a rice dish because it looked like rossetti but I was not disappointed in the least. I only wish the dish had been a bit more colorful because they say the more colorful the food the better it is for you. I wanted it to taste exactly the same, but with a little green, blue, and magenta or something, to make it healthier somehow. The dish was so good and relatively cheap that I returned today to sample another platter. Today's choice was Veal Sausage, also amazing, I just wasn't loving the gravy that it was covered in, a bit too sweet for my sensitive palette.

Tonight I am going to the Municipal Theatre to see some show in Swiss. I am not really sure what it is called and have no idea what the show is about, but the guy at the ticket office recommended it. I am excited to have a night filled with culture. I took an extra special bath for it! One always needs a good reason to take a long bath. I just recommend long showers in a place where the water doesn't turn off every 5 seconds requiring you to keep one hand close to the button in order to press it every 2 seconds or so. LOL. It always makes me giggle a bit when the showers function the way most public sinks do and the sinks function in a normal, constantly on, fashion. It just seems a little backward to me.

Well, I am off to the Theatre. I sound so much more aristocratic when I say that but you have to remember I am going in cloths that I have worn three days in a row, so it is not so fashionable. Hopefully the person in the next seat can't tell.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Loving Florence

Loving Florence. The people here really love artists. Every time I have my sketch book out, I get lots of attention from tourists and locals alike.

Today I spent about two and a half hours in the Galleria Academia where Michelangelo's David stands in its full 17 feet. It was so much fun and a great thrill to see the beautiful figure. I did several studies of it in my sketch book (which I thought I had lost yesterday and finally found it when I got into bed and realized I had folded it into my sheets).

I went on a walking tour yesterday and refreshed my knowledge of Florentine history. Since I had "Civilization of the Arts: 14th Century Florence," it has been a lot of fun for me to be here seeing all of the sights and art that I studied only in pictures while in the class. I almost felt like I could give tours of Duomo. After the tour was over, I hung out with a couple of people I met on the tour, Fedimma from Ireland and Simon from Australia. We ended up just doing a bit of walking around Florence ending up completely lost at one point but once we found out where we were we enjoyed a beautiful view of the city.

After hiking around the southern part of the city, I headed back to the hostel for dinner (there is a really cheap and reasonably good restaurant at the hostel). While having dinner, I ran into another Irish girl I met on the tour, Nieve. Nieve, her boyfriend, some Japanese kids, and I spent the evening drinking vino and having a great night sharing traveling stories. We ended up being the life of the party in the hostel, ending up with a group of about a dozen. So much fun.

The day before I hiked up to the top of Brunellesci's Dome, all 422 steps. It was breathtaking to reach the top of the dome, the largest dome in the world, looking out over the city. After my class in college where I read "Brunellesci's Dome" the book, it was incredible to see first hand the herring bone brick pattern and the dome within a dome structure. I did get a little freaked out about the heights at one point when we had to walk along the inside edge of the dome, close enough to touch the frescos painted on the ceiling, although I was doing better than the young woman following me.

I had a wonderful time in Florence. It is such a beautiful city, maybe a bit to expensive for me to stay too long, but I think I have made good with my time here. Tomorrow I am heading to Zurich but I am thinking about making a detour through Pisa on my way north.

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Getting to Florence

I had an interesting time getting to Florence. I got up a bit late this morning, deciding I would just have a lazy Sunday morning, since I remembered last night that the Vatican is not open on Sundays. According to the time schedule I have there are trains every half hour from Rome to Florence so I wasn't worried about not getting there.

There was a lovely British woman working reception at the hostel. I had not met her before, normally it is these two young guys from Sweden, so I was a little surprised when I saw her. Checkout was a breeze, since the hostel didn't have lockers or keys, you literally just picked up your things and left. But I decided to stick around and figure out a few things to do in Florence and work on some sketches I had started the day before. I had a lovely chat with the British woman while she cooked eggs for one of the Swedish guys who was suffering from a little hangover. Italy, I point out now, is not an easy place to find good food on a Sunday. I ate MacDonalds twice in one day, sacrilege!

Well I finally decided around 2pm to head to the train station. I throughly enjoyed my extra hour, thank you daylight savings. Once at the train station I had a couple of options of trains, the main choice being whether I wanted to pay for the high speed train or not. I opted to not pay the 15 euro reservation fee for the high speed and just go with the slow train that took an exhausting one hour longer. So like a good traveler I waited patiently for the train to arrive.

To my surprise it was a really full train but I was tired so I slept for most of it. Then we got to Florence. I didn't realize until then that this train did not stop at the main station, S.M. Nouvelle. So I looked at the train schedule to see when the next train headed to SMN was leaving. Well there must have been something wrong with the information signs on the platforms because they were all about 3 hours behind. So I got on the train that looked like it was headed in the direction I wanted, and there were lots of people waiting to get on. I am not sure why but after 2 stops I decided I was not going the right direction so I got off at Zambra. I don't recommend Zambra, there isn't much there besides the slab of concrete known as the train station. At this point, I was worried I wouldn't be able to get back without hitchhiking. I checked the train schedule, and at least this time I knew which direction the train should be headed. I found it funny that the platform was labeled 3 and 4, I don't know where 1 and 2 were. The schedule said there would be many more trains on the way although after further inspection with my broken Italian, I realized most of the trains listed were only for special events. Luckily there was WiFi somewhere nearby and I was able to check Eurail and TrenItaliano schedules to deduce that there was another train coming at 9:53, or in about 2 hours. So I sat and waited, imported some photos, and had a nice chat with myself. It was lovely. At one point another train showed up, and waited for me to get on, but I just flagged the conductor to just keep going. Finally 9:53 came and went but there was no train. Then I started to get worried. But like every train in Italy it was only late.

Finally, two hours later than I expected, I arrived at my hostel. Yeah fun travel days!! Ciao