Wednesday, February 25, 2009

Back in the USA

I arrived back in the USA on February 2nd, Groundhog Day, and it was like the movie. I left New Zealand at 7:40 PM on Feb 2 and arrived in Dallas at 6:40 PM on Feb 2 but about 19 hours had transpired.

I'm now off for a new adventure working in Las Vegas as an Associate Lighting Designer for Barry Manilow's show at the Las Vegas Hilton.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

More New Zealand

I left Queenstown of Thursday and went off to Dunedin. Dunedin has a huge Scottish heritage, and its train station is one of the most photographed buildings in all of New Zealand. It is also home to one of the main Cadbury Chocolate factories. That being said, I went on a tour of the factory, if for no other reason than to get free chocolate. It was quite the Willie Wonka Chocolate factory but they did try. It was just funny to see how many different kinds of chocolate bars are made and how many of them are region specific. Most of the candy bars they gave us to try I had never heard of before but they were top sellers in NZ. At the end of the tour, they marched us into a silo and dropped one ton of chocolate from above our heads into a huge vat. It was a chocolate lovers dream although I had to have an insulin shot after the tour was over.

Johanna, David, Karen (the couple from Ohio), and I rushed from the chocolate tour to catch the bus taking us on the wildlife discovery tour. Dunedin is located extremely closely to a peninsula where you can see albotrass and yellowed eyed penguins in the wild. Definitely a highlight of my trip was watching a colony of adorable penguins crawling out of the water, onto the beach, and up a steep hill to feed their chicks. It was just so cute!! We also got to walk along a private stretch of beach covered in fur seals as they layed out on rocks playing with their new babies. AWWWWEE!!!! Johanna and I met a couple of kids from England on the tour and it turned out that we were sharing a room with them that night in our hostel, so once we got back from the 6 hour long tour, we all went and grabbed a snack and finished the night off with a couple of games of pool at the hostel.

Yesterday the Magic Bus drove from Dunedin to Lake Tekapo for a relaxing evening in the small summer town. The hostel I stayed in was right on the lake and just a couple of minutes walk from some hot pools, so once everyone had settled in and had dinner, we all headed to the hot pools for a relaxing dip. Then, as the sun set and we dried off, the stars started to come out in droves making it an easy choice to lay outside after dusk to enjoy the view of the milky way. All in all, a lovely and peaceful day.

Now I am back in Christchurch preparing for the long journey home. Tomorrow I fly back to Auckland, where I will spend one night before boarding a plane to return home. WOW, I can't believe it is all almost over!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Around New Zealand

Been having a blast the past several days in New Zealand.

In my last message, I was about to head from Wellington to the South Island. Well that journey was successfully completed. Johanna and I played it pretty cool the one night in Wellington and I got to meet up with Nick, a chap I met on the train between Prague and Krakow, for drinks. He had remember me telling him I was going to be in NZ about this time so he shot me an e-mail and we ended up having a couple of beers and catching each other up on our travel stories.

He had taken trains, including the TranSiberian, all the way from Poland to Hong Kong after I had spent the day with him on the train. He had some great stories and it was fun to see him. He also gave me a few tips on things to do while I was on the South Island.

The following day, Johanna and I hopped on the ferry which was about the size of a small cruise ship where we met up with Steve, a British farmer backpacking a bit in New Zealand while he works on a couple of farms as a sheep sheerer. Steve was a great guy and when we got to Picton, he joined me on the train while Johanna branched off to Nelson on the bus.

The train ride between Picton and Christchurch was incredible. Definitely the most scenic train I have taken on the entire trip. Most of the train ride, you are riding right along side the coast line looking out over the water sprinkled with fields of seaweed that sparkle like diamonds in the dancing water. The train had an open air car so you could stand and take unobscured pictures while riding, and Steve and I spent about 85% 0f the trip in that car. At one point we road past a seal colony and you could see dozens of wild seals playing on the rocks just meters from the train. It wasn't the most comfortable train I have ever been on but it was the most beautiful scenery in the world to see.

Steve and I spent that night at a hostel in Christchurch, where I taught him the wonders of a meal at Denny's. Surprisingly the Denny's menu included a full cocktail menu and wine list. The Denny's I used to go to late nights in college definitely didn't have a bar, so it was a new experience for me too. We spent the rest of the night having a few drinks in the bar downstairs from our hostel and then crashed early for the next day spent on the train to Greymouth. Sunday morning, the two of us got up early so I could catch the train to Greysmouth and he could catch the bus to Queenstown. He taught me a few things about sheep sheering, and I taught him a few things about the arts; definitely a friendship built on sharing.

The train to Greysmouth was another scenic journey, not as long, but with just as many breathtaking sights. Once I arrived in Greysmouth, I discovered a sleepy town near the sea. There wasn't much to do there which was fine with me seeing as how I was getting exhausted after moving around so much. I did, however, walk to the beach and enjoy the powerful and turbulent surf as it crashed along the nearby jetty.

The next morning, I got back on the Magic Bus headed to Franz Josef. Along the way, we stopped at our regular list of incredible sights and interesting destinations including a place to try your hand at panning for gold. Once we arrived in Franz Josef, I went on a half day hike up the Franz Glacier. That is definitely a new activity that I would love to continue, ice climbing. The views were marvelous and the hike was exhausting but invigorating. I felt so accomplished after the 4.5 hour hike, wishing that I was staying another day so I could do the full day or heli hike of the glacier. It was just so much fun to have to strap ice spikes onto the bottom of your hiking boots and climb all over this massive miracle.

Once we got back to town, everyone was beyond tired, but we managed to pull together the last bits of energy to go out for a few drinks with some new friends. Yesterday, we drove from Franz Josef to Queenstown on the longest bus ride of the circuit. We stopped at Fox Glacier, a few small, picturesque towns, and a massive fruit stand. Because we didn't arrive in Queenstown until late afternoon, it is required of you to stay two nights here. After a couple of drinks with a bunch of people from the bus last night, I got up early this morning to go white water rafting. Fantastic!!!! I had so much fun, and it was just so beautiful rafting around the old gold mining sights and seeing in person some of the locations for the lord of the rings movie. Later this afternoon, I am meeting up with a few people to go street lugeing and then for a bite to eat.

Only five nights left sleeping in hostel beds, and then one long night on a plane until I return home.

Monday, January 26, 2009

New Zealand

Having a good time. Hiked a glacier today... wicked.
Here's a map of my route.


Friday, January 23, 2009

Taupo, New Zealand

23/9/09
I am on my way to Wellington, the capitol of New Zealand. In the past three days, I have been busing it around the North Island, and tomorrow I will take a ferry from Wellington to Picton on the South Island.

Auckland was a great place for me to get my feet wet in New Zealand. I was able to do a bit of research on the islands. There are about 4 or 5 companies that offer hop-on hop-off bus trips around the country. Each company offers different routes and destinations at a variety of price levels. The hardest part about New Zealand is deciding which company to go with and what trek is the best option for you. I recommend anyone coming to New Zealand to do a bit of research on the subject of itineraries. It will save you a great deal of stress on arrival. I, after a bit of deliberation, settled on the Magic Bus Company and their Kokako Tour which covers the north and south islands, as well as getting me back to Auckland on a plane. Twelve packed days enjoying the beautiful sights, jumping off bridges, and meeting new friends.

On the first day, I left Auckland headed for Rotorua with a stop off in Waitomo. Once we arrived in Waitomo, the bus driver took us to a rabbit sheering facility where we got to watch a hilarious demonstration of this funny old woman sheering a rabbit. I had never seen anything so ridiculous. She strapped the massive, furry rabbit into a rotisserie like device that spun the hare around while she used the huge sheep sheering clippers to trim the extra long fur back. After I had a good laugh from watching the spectacle, I got to abseil down into a cave just outside of the city. It was a 50m drop from the surface to the bottom of the cave. The best part of it was that I was the only person signed up for that session, so I got to go out with my guide to do a one on one adventure. That meant I got to do it a few times and enjoy ever minute of it. I hadn’t been repelling since the boy scouts, so it was much fun to do it all again.

That night, once we had made it to “Roto-Vegas,” as the locals call it, I went with a couple of people I met on the bus to see a Maori show followed by a traditional Maori meal. Johanna, a girl from Sweden I have been spending a bit of time with, and I were starved after riding on the bus all day and missing out on lunch and dinner. By the time we got to the village for the Maori Experience, we were about to just start begging for food. I was hoping it would be a dinner theatre type show, but the meal was the last part of the experience. We were both so thankful that it was delicious and all-you-can-eat. It was an incredible evening, filled with culture, fun, food, and a new friend or two. I celebrate the evening by purchasing a set of coasters designed with a Maori influence.

That night I sat up for a while chatting it up with my roommate, Josh from Perth, about life, health, and the pursuit of happiness while we shared a few beers. A great way to end the night.

The next day, Johanna and I hopped on the bus headed to Lake Taupo. Along the way we stopped and watched one of the thermal geysers erupt just outside of Rotorua. (P.S. Due to all of the natural thermals in Rotorua, the smell of sulfur makes the entire city smell as though someone has just farted, all the time). It was fun to see a geyser since I have never been to Yellowstone before.

After we stopped off at a couple of places along the way, I went to the Rock n’ Ropes course where I did a massive trapeze and a “giant” swing. To do the trapeze I had to climb to the top of a 10m tall log, stand up on top, and then jump out to the trapeze hanging a few meters in front of me. I wasn’t nearly as frightened as I thought I would be although I didn’t think about it too much before hand, but it was definitely a blast right up until the end. Once I had caught the trapeze, on my first try mind you, I realized that the guy holding my safety line wasn’t taking any slack out of the rope, intentionally, which meant I was going to drop a ways before the ropes caught me. I wasn't afraid of falling but I was not looking forward to the sensation of my stomach being in my throat, but I successfully let go. Next I did the giant swing, which was basically a miniature version of the massive three person swings at Six Flags. After watching a 10 year old girl do it, I knew I had to be a man and just go for it. After just a little hop, I was swinging from 20 meters up. The first two swings sent my stomach sky rocketing, but once I relaxed into the fun, my digestive system returned to it upright and locked position. It was a fun time confronting fears and learning to simply jump.

That evening, after a bite, Johanna, Bard from Norway, Georgina from Spain, and I went down to the local hot spring for a dip in the water. It was amazing. The hot spring mixed with the cold river water makes a perfect swimming whole. Most people came down with beers, soaked in the incredible water, and chatted it up with other soakers. We ended up staying down there for a few hours and then headed back to our hostels for a an early evening relaxing before another day on the bus.

Over the past few days I have been “playing” the win a free Coke game. The game is simple, when you buy a bottle of Coke, you look under the cap, and it tells you instantly whether you have won or not. So far I have won 4 bottles of Coke. Pretty much every time I redeem a cap, the one I pick up is also a winner. I haven’t had to buy a bottle of coke since I started the bus trip.

In just a few hours, I will be in Wellington enjoying the sights and sounds of the New Zealand capitol. Hope all is well back in the US. Just 11 more days.

Namaste, Mark








Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Auckland, New Zealand

I start my Magic bus tour today, one of many hop-on hop-off bus tours that goes all the way around the country. Wouldn't that be a great idea for a US company to do since it is such a big country and so difficult to get around if you don't fly.

Monday, January 19, 2009

Hello from tomorrow... now that I am 20 hours ahead of you

G’day Mates

I am quickly approaching the end of my travels and I am preparing to travel on my last flight before I board my flight to return home. Australia was an incredible nation, much like the US in many ways, but still holding on to that Aussie charm. Everyone is a mate, to the point that when people walk past beggars on the streets instead of just ignoring them or saying “no” they typically address the panhandler with a “Sorry Mate.” I just thought that was sweet, even the beggars are mates.

I spent the last week of my three weeks in Australia with Jules and her family in Brisbane. If you will recall I met Jules in Vienna, traveled with her to Poland, and met back up with her in London the second time I was there. We had been planning to meet up in Brisbane since our first encounter which reassured me that the negative comments I was getting from other Aussies about Brisbane wouldn’t hold true for me. Jules have a lovely family who I got the privilege of getting to know while I was staying in Queensland. James, Jules’ brother, is married to Michelle, and they have four gorgeous children: Johnny, age 4, Nathan, age 2, and the twin girls, Alice and Emily, age 18 months. All the kids have such definitive personalities: Johnny the tentative rebel, Nathan the sweet-hearted playboy, Alice the fearless thinker, and Emily the flirty dancer (she loved it when I danced with her).

The bus ride from Sydney to Brisbane takes about 16 hours, and I think I am the only person to make the trip without stopping over somewhere. Most of the people who shared the bus with me got off at Byron Bay, which looked like one big frat party as the bus pulled into the terminal. The bus was a much better ride than the train in Australia. I got to see some really awesome truck stops shaped like the big rock and a prawn. Once I finally arrived in Brisbane, I was able to meet up with Jules and make the drive from the city to the suburb where she and the family live, Bracken Ridge. That first night was a bit of a bust, seeing as how I had just been on a bus for 16 hours, but I got acquainted with the house and slept like a baby.

On my official first day in Brisbane, Jules took me on a driving tour of the city, showing me all of the major areas of the city like Fortitude Valley, New Farm, Hamilton Hill, Downtown, and Southbank. Brisbane has a really amazing regional theatre that is housed in an old abandoned power-plant and they have left a lot of the graffiti and equipment in the space so it has a great artistic, urban feel. After Julianne and I had driven around for a bit, we met up with her good friend, Trent, for a spot of lunch and a friendly introduction. Jules and I ended up spending Friday and Saturday night at Trent’s with his partner Antony. The two of us finished our day of sightseeing with a promenade down the shores of Southbank on the Brisbane River and visiting the Gallery of Modern Art which had some really terrific exhibits. One of the exhibits was a video exhibit featuring a dozen people who were recorded singing Michael Jackson songs. It was loads of fun to the point Jules and I lost track of time and ended up closing the museum.

The two of us ended the day with fish and chips on the bay with her friend Liam. Jules introduced me to a lot of her inner circle in Brisbane. Meals with friends, drinks and dancing with old acquaintances, Brisbane was filled to brim with entertainment. On Thursday, Jules and I went to Australia Zoo, where I was able to pay homage to Steve Irwin, and become nauseated by the merchandising of his daughter Bindi, who has exercise DVDs, beach-towels, and mugs with her likeness emblazoned on them. I was, however, able to pet both kangaroos and koalas as they hopped around or slept. The world famous crocodile show was a lot of fun, although we missed Bindi and the Crocmen performing before the 11 am show. The Zoo isn’t the biggest I have ever been to but it really is doing a great job educating people about preserving wildlife and honoring Steve’s memory.

After going to the zoo, Jules and I drove North to Kungalula Falls, where we had a very late lunch in the Treetops Hotel and hiked through the hinterland looking for waterfalls and solving all the world’s problems. There was a great rock pool that we found but had left our towels in the car by accident, so we opted out of taking a dip.

We finished off the day picking Michelle up from the salon she owns and going back to the house to have excellent pizzas prepared by Mr. Mom, James. Friday was a full day journey to the beach with Jules, James, and Johnny. The other kids have been put in a “mothers day out” daycare program, so James was only left with Johnny, who starts kindergarten in a few weeks. We made it to the beach, covered from head to toe in sunscreen, and had a blast playing in the waves, making a sand sculpture that looked like an alligator, and playing on the playground with Johnny. It was great! We ate a roast chicken that looked like a similar meal I had in Cambodia, minus the head, and went for a swim in the backyard pool when we got home to help wash off all the sand. I also got to eat my first Tim-Tam, a staple of Australian cookies, although they were melted so much it was like eating fondu.

That night, we headed over to Trent and Ant’s for the weekend after eating a bit of seafood laksa. Trent and Ant have a lovely home in the suburbs, and I got to sleep on a full size bed with all the luxuries of a fine hotel. The next morning we woke up to have breakfast on the patio, bacon and eggs cooked on the barbie. Once we were fed and dressed, we headed down the coast with Byron Bay as our destination. Unfortunately, due to a bit of wet weather and heavy traffic, we never made it to Byron but we made it to the Gold Coast. We had more fish n’ chips for lunch at a surf club. Always fish and chips in Aussie. I got to stand across the state line between New South Wales and Queensland which also meant that I was standing in two different time zones. I am not sure how they coordinate schedules in Rainbow Bay, but I am sure they figure something out. That night, we put on our dancing shoes and headed out to a couple of bars and clubs to dance the night away Brisbane style. It was loads of fun, but I definitely woke up sore the next day, seeing as how it had been so long since I’ve had a night out like that.

Sunday, Jules and I slept in, but headed back to the house to spend time with family. Michelle’s mother and her partner, Greg, came over for the afternoon and everyone took a nice long swim. After we had all dried off, I did some portraits of the family as a thank you to the Twifords. Ended up getting some great pictures of the family and hope they really enjoy them. Jules and I spent the rest of the evening, going through photos, transferring files, and playing with the pooped kids (no one had had a nap that day).

Currently I am on the flight to Auckland, and spending two weeks in New Zealand before heading home. I have lots of tips on traveling there, so I am planning on spending the afternoon researching and booking my time in the islands.I hope all is going well back in the States. Only a couple of days before the Inauguration. It starts at 1 am in Auckland on Wednesday morning.

Mark and Johnny with sand alligator
Mark, Johnny and Nathan
At Australia Zoo
At the Park

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Brisbane, Australia, Too

I am heading to New Zealand tomorrow, and hoping to do a bit of writing on the plane. Sorry my postings have been short, I've been busy keeping up with the Twiffords (Jules' last name). Went driving up and down the Gold and Sunshine Coasts, swimming with the boys, to Australia Zoo (home to Steve Irwin), out to a few of the hot night spots, and eaten more fish and chips than I can handle and then some. Plus I had shrimp on the barbie and kangaroo meat. Busy Busy Busy!!!

Wednesday, January 14, 2009

Brisgane, Australia

Jules and I had a great first day in Brisbane. She is obviously a fan of her hometown, so it was exciting for me to get the inside perspective.

I am staying with Jules, her brother, James, his wife, Michelle, and their for kids (all under the age of four). So I was awoken this morning by Johnny, age 4, standing next to my bed waiting for an excuse to rouse me from my bed. The kids are all great. I haven't really spent any time with the two babies, twin girls age 8 months, but they are really quiet and calm for what I would consider 8 month olds.

After getting up and getting the good cop/bad cop treatment from the boys, Jules and I headed into the city to have lunch with one of her close friends, Trent. After lunch we spent the day driving around the city, getting my bearings, and listening to the inside commentary on Brisbane. The two of us did a bit of walking around the downtown area and along the river. We visited the Modern Art Gallery of Brisbane which had some really fun exhibits. We finished off the day with fish and chips down by the bay with Jules' other friend, Liam.

Quite a fun day, at a great pace, and I am sure a few more excellent days are in store for me here.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Brisbane, Australia

I have arrived safe and sound in Brisbane and have met up with Jules. 16 hours on a bus, priceless.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Melbourne to Sydney

I am headed on the train now between Melbourne and Sydney. 11 hours on one train, something I never got in Europe. A long day of travel like this in Europe would have required several trains and a possible tram or bus ride.

Toni and her sister were incredibly hospitable to me during the week that I was in Melbourne. They set me up in a private room with a huge comfy bed and fresh towels. The home that the two of them share reminds me of many of the homes in the states, a small bungalow with one bathroom. It was a perfectly lovely place to spend the week, and even though it was a bit outside of the city, I got to see how real citizens of Melbourne lived, worked, and played.

Toni is currently looking for work after returning home from her excursion, so it meant I had her all to myself for the most part to show me around and share adventures with. The first day that I got to Melbourne, I arrived very early in the morning, but by the time I had processed through passport control, customs, and health check (because even with the fact that Australia has the highest concentration of deadly and poisonous species of animals in the world, they really don’t want mad cow disease or the bird flu) it was about 7am. By the time I walked out the door of the airport to look for a phone to call Toni from, I saw her walking up from the parking garage to come and get me. After stopping at Mackers (McDonalds) for breakfast, we made it back to her house to unload and have a little nap. Due to the time change and a lack of sleep on the plane, my “nap” turned into a bit of hibernation, but seeing as how it was New Years Eve and I was going to be up pretty late that night, the nap was well worth it. Toni had planned for the two of us to go to a 1920’s inspired dinner party for the evening, and lucky for me, I had a suit made in Thailand that worked perfectly with the aid of a few accessories and hair product to pull off a pretty decent looking 1920’s ensemble.

New Years Eve was filled with fun. The dinner party was pretty small with only about a dozen or so people in attendance, making it very easy for me to get to know all of the other partygoers and enjoy the festivities. The guy, Troy, whom had planned the event, had set it up like a pot luck, but instead of serving everything buffet style, we did a proper sit down 8 course meal. Portion size of the food got drastically smaller as the night went on and everyone started to pop buttons from being so full. One of the other guests, Stu or Soup (depending on your personal taste in nicknames), works as a bartender, so after every course we would go into the kitchen and he would teach all of us a new cocktail to make. I lost track of all the different types of drinks we had and by the 8th course I am pretty sure I was just putting whatever I could reach into the glass and drinking it. Not necessarily the best approach to making a delicious cocktail, but the longer one drinks the less sophisticated the palate becomes. Fifteen minutes until midnight the party walked over to a nearby park, champagne in hand, to sit in the grandstand for the cricket field and watch the fireworks in the city go off. It was lovely, although the fireworks were a ways off, and as soon as the clock stuck midnight, we tried to get everyone in the grandstand to do the Mexican Wave. Some people went for it others looked at us like we might have had a little too much to drink. But I think the Mexican Wave is a much more exciting way to ring in the New Year than just kissing someone nearby, although we did a bit of that too.

The next day, while nursing a hangover, Toni and her sister took me out for brunch at a fun little café in the artsy area of Melbourne. It was delicious, greasy, and the perfect cure for a hangover. Plus we won’t the only people with that idea. Melbourne has been surprisingly cool in temperature while I have been here. I do have to remind myself that south of the equator, the further south you get, the colder it gets. I keep thinking to myself, “I can’t believe it is so cold here, I am so far south. Wait, I am so far south I am near Antarctica.” It is just a strange concept to me that the further north one goes, the warmer it gets. Due to the cool weather we spent the afternoon doing a driving tour around the city of Melbourne and its outlying areas. It is a pretty big little place once you get out of the city limits. On Friday, Toni and I got up and went into “China Town,” not quite the Chinatown of Singapore, but it was still cute, and walked around for a good chunk of the day exploring the downtown area. We decided on our stroll to see Wicked that night, so I treated her to a couple of tickets as a thank you for letting me stay with her. We rushed home to freshen up and then headed back downtown for the show. Toni loved it, thank goodness, and was talking about how much she would like to see it again. I think I have finally added another show to her repertoire of musical theatre, the list formerly only containing Phantom of the Opera. (So many people and their obsession with that show.) The two of us had a great night, and it was fun for me to see the show a second time, especially since this was a permanent production and nothing was cut out to make it easier to travel.

I also bought a bus ticket that day to do the Great Ocean Road. Early Saturday morning I awoke to go into town to catch the tour bus headed down the Great Ocean Road, think Pacific Coast Highway meets Australia but better. It was a full day going to all of the major sights on the Great Ocean Road, and at one point I got to do a helicopter ride over one of the more famous landmarks, the 12 Apostles. All of the wonderful little beach towns along the way really made me want to live there once I have made the million or so dollars I will need to purchase property there. I have lots of pictures since there is no way to really describe the sights along the Great Ocean Road.

Sunday, was a very lazy day for the most part, until late afternoon, when we all went to the St Kilda Sea Baths to enjoy the weekly outdoor Salsa dancing marathon. The Baths, or beach club, sit right out over the water, so we enjoyed a few cocktails, a live salsa band, and dancing on the beach. The crowd varied from super experienced to beginner so it was a lot of fun for a spotlight hog like myself to break out my dancing shoes and enjoy the evening. It was also really hot that day, so you could really only do one song at a time, which was delightful in that everyone on the dance floor did a natural rotation so it wasn’t unbearably full. Finally on Monday, Toni and I went to one of her favorite beaches to enjoy the warmer weather. Of course, I got a gnarly sunburn on about 70 percent of my body, but I am taking pretty good care of it and longing for the day it will either darken brown or peel off, so I don’t look like a lobster anymore. The beach, though, was beautiful, although a bit more crowded then we expected. Seeing as how it is summer here in Australia, all of the students are on summer break. That was really weird for me to try to understand, students don’t go back to school after the Christmas break until March. I thought all schools would work on the schedule set up in the Northern Hemisphere. Some things I just don’t have the time to get used to.

I am on to Sydney now, seeing more friends for the trip, and maybe doing a surf school, although I will be wearing an SPF 80 from now on, white is way better than red.

P.S. I made it to Sydney, late of course. I should really have learned by now that anytime I get on a train it is going to be late.... I just didn't think it would be 2.5 hours late

Next day in Sydney:
Sydney is great, having loads of fun. Seeing a show at Cate Blanchette's theatre tonight... Ye-Haw

Sunday, January 4, 2009

Melbourne, Australia

I have been having a blast in Melbourne. Went to a 1920's dinner party for New Years Eve and watched the city fireworks from the bleachers of a nearby park.

I got a hungover driving tour of the city. I went on a 13 hour bus tour of the Great Ocean Road and saw the 12 Apostles (rocks in the ocean), as well as take a helicopter tour of the coast line.

Toni and I went and saw Wicked since there is a permanent production here. I went salsa dancing on the beach with Toni and her sister. Today we are going to go chill out on the beach for a bit, and enjoy the beautiful weather. It has been a lot cooler here than I had expected.

Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

From Bangkok to Singapore to Melbourne

I made it to Singapore last night, and now I am waiting at the airport for my flight to Melbourne. I have made contact with Toni a couple of times so I don't think there will be any problems getting in touch with her once I touch down. I am really excited to be heading to yet another continent, and my first time in the southern hemisphere.

Just making contact, not too much time left to wait. Sorry I have been so bad about e-mailing, I have just been having a really good time, and being lazy about making time to send a couple of messages now and then. Only 35 more days left for me on the road.

Later...Just wanted to let you know that I have safely arrived in Melbourne and met up with Toni, so all is well in the travelers world.

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Well I had a fun first day in Siem Reap, home to one of the many wonders of the world Angkor Wat.

On Sunday I went to a Mountain about 1.5 hours outside of Phnom Penh, where there is a series of beautiful temples that overlook the flat Cambodian landscape. It was a day filled with a ton of hiking, free range monkeys, and dozens of little kids following me around with fans pushing each other out of the way trying to be the one fanning me the most. None of them wanted to sell me anything, they simply walked every where I did while holding Chinese fans, and occasionally using them to blow fresh humid air in my general direction. By the time I got back to the tuk-tuk to head home I had about 6 kids following me, two girls of which had followed me all the way from start to finish. I decided to tip the two of them 5 dollars each. By the time I got back to the hotel I was desperate for a little rest, so I found a place to get my reflexology done and enjoyed being pampered a bit.

I took the ferry yesterday from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap, and have decided it is definitely the best way to get between the two cities. It took about 5 hours to speed up the Tonle Sap River, but the journey was filled with incredible sights, fun people, and you could literally sit wherever you wanted (which for most people meant on top of the ferry). The wind rushing through your hair, the scenery constantly changing, and a fun group of westerners sailing along the river made for a lot of fun. I just made the mistake of packing my sunscreen deep in my pack that was stored in the engine room so I got a bit of a sunburn. When I say a bit of a sunburn, I mean my face is on fire... hahaha. Luckily, though, my sunscreen (that I am now applying quite liberally) has aloe vera and vitamin E in it, so it relieves some of the pain as well as protecting from any further burning.

This morning I got up to start exploring the numerous temples of Angkor Wat, one of which is the location where Angelina Jolie filmed the first Tomb Raider movie, where she developed her love of Cambodian orphans. I joke that this place must be like a Costco to her where she can buy in bulk because the children will literally follow you everywhere in packs hoping you will buy something. I am sure if you made an Angelina offer they would sell you themselves as well, anything for a couple of bucks.

The temples here are incredible. Beautiful, massive, and so ornately decorated that all of the stone walls have worm hole carvings in them. I walked around a lot today, looking at the ruin, wondering what these structures would have looked like 1000 years ago. The place is filled with tourists, but it is so beautiful and so secluded that I didn't seem to mind too much. While having lunch in a little place near the first temple I stopped at, I met a group of kids from Australia and New Zealand, surprisingly all named Chris (well the three boys where, the girl was named Kirstin, but it is close to Chris). We all had a couple of beers together, shared stories, and decided to hike around a bit more together. By the end of our time there, we all agreed that we had probably taken WAY too many photos seeing as how there is no way to capture the magnificence of the place in any photos. But alas, we all have a couple of hundred photos of Angkor Wat, and we only visited a couple of the temples of the site.

Tonight we are all meeting back up to have a couple of drinks and experience the Siem Reap night life. I am going to go find a cheap place to have dinner before I have to meet back up with them. Cambodia is definitely a must see for any traveler. It is a place like nothing I have ever seen before, and due to its lack of tourism is a place most people will never see either.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

Day one in Cambodia, a day I will never forget.

After spending a little over a week in Singapore, recuperating, enjoying the simple pleasures of family life, and basking in the high style of an expat (ex-patriot), I have left the sanctuary of distant (once removed) family and headed for Cambodia. I will miss the luxurious three story house with full private bath and live in maid, but I am sure I will return with ease to my simple travelers life. And, what a way to dive back in, discovering the wonders of the impoverished scenes in Cambodia.

I awoke this morning at 4 am to head to the airport in order to catch my 6:45 am flight to Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. I took a taxi from the Ware’s estate to the airport, but I am pretty certain that by some coincidence another person on the street had also called for a taxi and I had stolen his. Why on earth was someone else calling a taxi at 4:30 am, I will never know. After getting checked in at the airport, having a spot of breakfast, and doing my duty free perusing, I boarded the JetStar flight to Phnom Penh. Other than the 1 hour delay we had at the airport due to a malfunctioning flight computer, the flight was smooth and uneventful.

On arriving in Cambodia, I had to apply for my visa, which consisted of filling out a little bit of paperwork, paying $20 (P.S. Cambodia has its own currency, Cambodian Reil, but everyone wants you as a red devil to pay in US dollars) and waiting for them to hold your passport in the air signifying the completion of your visa. After collecting my pack and making it through customs I had to find a way to my guesthouse, Sunday Guesthouse. As soon as you walk out of the airport doors, hundreds of men with their tuk-tuks are waiting to take you to your destination. How does one describe a tuk-tuk to a Westerner? Tuk-tuks are to Cambodia, what gondolas are to Venice, the easiest and was available form of transportation. Imagine a horse drawn carriage in Central Park, shrink it in half, add a canopy, and age it about 30 years. Then, instead of being pulled around by a beautiful, sturdy horse, picture it being pulled around by an old Vespa. They can turn on a dime, max out at about 20 mph, and dominate the chaotic roads of Cambodia. Driving in Cambodia must be like an exercise in mindful meditation because unless you are paying attention to EVERYTHING going on around you, you are going to die. 'Nough said. The other means of transportation (more popular with the locals) is simply paying a guy to let you ride on the back of his scooter while you prop your feet up on jump seat pegs. Many times you will see three to four people riding this way on one scooter. Dangerous, yes, but totally riding Cambodian style. I am not sure what Cambodians would do without motor-scooters.

After checking in to my guesthouse, which costs about $12 a night for a private room with a private bath, I grabbed a tuk-tuk and arranged to hire the guy and his vehicle for the whole day. Such a request is the norm here with a negotiable fee, but for me hiring the guy for a 5 hour journey cost me $25. We ended up heading out to a small island about 20km outside of Phnom Penh called Koh Dach. Thanks to some advanced research, I knew it was a location I was dying to go to, and thanks to my drivers vast knowledge of the area was an easy trek. Not necessarily a comfortable one, seeing as how the roads in Cambodia range from bad to worse, but it was easy.

After about 45 minutes a driving, we arrived at a ferry “pier” (a steep dirt ramp leading to the river front). We drove the tuk-tuk on to the ferry and headed across for an afternoon of delight. On the ferry, I was offered to have lunch at a woman’s home, roast chicken and rice. I decided, since it was approaching lunch time, that that was a great idea. So once the boat reached shore, she hurried off to start preparing the feast. On the way to her home, we stopped at another home that offered exactly what Koh Dach is known for, wand woven silk scarfs and fabrics. As a foreigner, as soon as my presence was known on the island, I was engulfed in woman offering me their fine silk creations. At one point I think I was cornered by 6 different women and 2 little girls, each wanting me to buy a piece from them. While the items were cheap by US standards, I still didn’t have the money or the room in my pack to purchase a piece from all of them, so after purchasing one silk “table cloth/drape/throw” and two scarves from the first woman to catch me, I had to apologetically decline the other offers in front of me. After collecting my goods, I got back in the tuk-tuk to head to lunch, leaving half a dozen Cambodian women cursing my name. (I actually doubt that, because they were all extremely nice, and just wanting to seize an opportunity for a few extra bucks.) Although I was leaving half a dozen women behind, two of them jumped right on their motorbikes and followed the tuk-tuk to its next stopping point.

Finally we arrived at the petite woman’s home for lunch just as she was slaughtering the chicken I was going to eat later. She laid a mat down in a small thatched hut that sat right on the beach, hovering over the water of the Mekong River, and ushered me to sit inside while I waited for her to finish preparing lunch. About this time, the girls with the scarves had caught up to me, and joined me in the hut to continue their sales pitch. I continued my polite no’s and offered them some of the fruit that had been provided by another woman. My driver (and I am terrible for not writing his name down, but I will see him tomorrow so no worries), the two girls, a random other woman, and I sat in the thatched hut for about an hour enjoying the views and having an impromptu language lesson, both Cambodian for me and English for them.

Once the food arrived, the tuk-tuk driver and I were left in peace to enjoy the delicious feast and enjoy the picturesque scenery. He taught me how to eat the food while I relaxed enjoying his company and that of the stray dogs that appeared to share in the wealth. After finishing eating and cleaning ourselves up a bit, he led me down the river to see some local fisherman pulling in the nets filled with thousands of sardine sized little fish. Once the food had settled, and I had finished stumbling around the sandy shore, we decided to head back. When we arrived at the ferry dock to wait to cross, all the same little silk weavers showed up again, trying to hawk me their goods, but this time I think they got the picture that I was not in the market for any more fabric.

We crossed back over the river to head back into town. The drive is beautiful, filled with stilted houses, elegant and massive Chinese temples, and vans bursting at the seams with passengers. By the time we got back to the hotel, I was ready for a bit of rest, so I laid down for a bit, watched some BBC World news and contemplated what my next move would be. After a while, I headed out to do some walking and find some contact lens solution (not an easy find in an impoverished nation). The streets of Phnom Penh were filled with people enjoying a gorgeous Friday night, getting ready for a fun weekend.

I met a fun couple, Aaron and Sandy (Aaron from the UK, Sandy from Colorado; Both now working in Kuwait), and spent the evening sharing a couple of beers and travel tails. The two of them seem to share in my sense of humor so it was a nice match. The three of us ended up watching Americas Next Top Model (oh yeah, Tyra has made it to Cambodia), and wallowing in the sadness that is Tyra Banks being a US representative in Cambodia.

What a way to spend a first day in Cambodia, but I think it is hard not to have a day like that in a country where the people are exceedingly friendly and the scenery is a mix of destitute and beautiful. Truly the wonders of Cambodia.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Loving Singapore

Things are going great in Singapore. Really enjoying every minute of it.

I went to the Singapore zoo today with the daughter of one of Kim's friends. Kelly, the daughter, is getting her degree in musical theatre from Lindenwood University, also in St Louis. It has been fun getting to know Kelly, she is a riot.

I feel like such an old fart here (but love it) because I am up fairly early by my standards, 8am, so I haven't really had any interest in going out late at night. When the kids head to bed, I feel like it is time for me to start heading that way too. Although, Kim and I usually have a Bailey's Irish Coffee and a long talk while we are closing up shop for the night.

After Kelly and I went to the zoo, we headed over to Chinatown and did a little bit of souvenir shopping for me and cloths shopping for her. After walking around the amazing market for a little while and gawking over the incredible swarm of old Asian guys playing chinese checkers in the courtyard, we had lunch at one of the local hawker stands. Hawker stands are a really big thing in Singapore, and I guess throughout Southeast Asia. It is a place lined with different kinds of little food stands so you can get a little bit of everything (including chicken feet) and eat it all for really cheap. Luckily for us, a young girl from Holland pointed us in the direction of one stand that apparently had the best chicken and rice in all of Singapore. It was so well known that Anthony Bourdain had formerly eaten there on his food network show. It was delicious. A perfect lunch, and only 3 sing dollars.

I spent a bit of the evening learning how to play "PURE," a ATV racing game for the X-Box. Carter was quite the instructor, showing me all the different techniques for doing tricks and getting bigger air. I ended up being pretty good and the two of us where able to beat a few of the levels (after about two dozen miserable and hilarious attempts).

Have a few things on the roster for tomorrow, so I will have another fun filled day in Singapore. I really am enjoying getting to know the city.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Singapore

Singapore is great. The weather is beautiful, and I have been having a fun time being shown around by Kim, and hanging with the family. Yesterday we had to go pick up a sculpture that her daughter, Jackie, had done. It was in a little industrial area of Singapore, and I got to see these incredible artists work on incredible traditional Sing artifacts and status. It was so much fun. My mouth was in a constant "WOW" shape. I was lucky enough to get a piece of the special wood clay that the guys used to take home.

Last night I went with Kim, her husband Robert, son Carter, and daughter Jackie to a neighborhood get-together. I met a lot of their neighbors and school friends and got to tell a few stories of my travels. Plus I received tons of tips on places to go and things to see while I am in Southeast Asia.

Today the family and I went to watch Jackie play a softball game, and Carter play a basketball game. A good time was had by all, and Carter's basketball team won, while Jackie's team nearly pulled back a win in the last inning but unfortunately fell a little short.

The food here is great, I am super relaxed, and excited by everything I see. This place is definitely exactly what I needed at this point in my travels, a little feeling of home.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

Made it to Singapore

I have successfully made it to Singapore.

Wow, this place is really incredible. Plus the hospitality I have been show by Aunt Traci and Uncle Chuck's cousin Kim is awe-inspiring. Way better than the digs I have had on the rest of this trip. Their home is beautiful, they have me in their private guest room with a private ensuite bath, oh, and did I mention there is a maid. This is way out of my normal travel dwelling, but will definitely be fun to do for a few days.

Kim is great, telling me all the things I should see and places to travel to. I am beyond impressed at her experience traveling around Southeast Asia, and can't help but laugh every time this down home Texas woman says something like, "Oh, you would just love Laos. You should really go." Wow, she has been to a place most people can't even find on a map.

Super tired, with an 11 hour flight and a 7 hour time change, so I will have to write more later, but I am safe and beyond comfortable.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

A Fond Farewell to Europe and On the Road to Singapore

Well I have a couple of hours to kill before I even need to leave for the airport here in Frankfurt. Hopefully, though, I will be able to sleep on the over night flight. That would be awesome.

I have been having a great time in Frankfurt. I was fortunate enough to meet an awesome local guy, Joe, who has been showing me around the city giving me a bit of history along the way. We went to a big famous indoor market. He took me shoe shopping so he could get a new pair of black dress shoes and I did what I do best, personal shopper. We went to the Stadel Museum, a big art museum in Frankfurt. And finally he took me to a traditional German restaurant, where I ate the Tuesday special (Bratwurst, fried potatoes, and brussel sprouts). We enjoyed apple wine, and finished our meal with two apple desserts. It was amazing. Plus I got to go to one more Christmas Market here in Germany, because one can never see too many Christmas Markets.

It is a strange feeling to have my time in Europe coming to an end. It is a little ridiculous how fast it has gone by, and yet it all seems like it just happened yesterday. Leaving Dallas and flying to Madrid. Laying on the rocky beaches of the Cote d'Azur. Hiking through the hills of Cinque Terra. Sleeping on the street in Zagreb. Roasting in the Bathes of Budapest. The seven hour walking tour in Vienna. Missing a train to Prague and ending up in Poland. Being kicked out of the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican. Getting stuck on a random train platform in the middle of Italy. Enjoying a show in Bern that I didn't understand at all. The train strike in Lyon. Seeing Billy Elliot the night I got into London while my pack waited for me in the theatre coat check. Having Brazilian food in Brussels with Tarcisio. Seeing Zwarte Piet (Santa's slave, always done by a guy in black face) in a bar in Holland. Sitting in a bucket seat on the EuroStar to London afterforking over a fortune and promising them my first born child. Getting lost at a Christmas Market in Berlin. And preparing for the next leg of my journey while enjoying apple wine in Frankfurt. One can do a lot when on the road for three months.

Wow, and I have two more months left. Reading "Eat, Pray, Love" has been fun the past couple of days, comparing my journeys with Elizabeth Gilbert's. Plus it is educating me on whether I want to spend 10 days in a monastery in Malaysia. I don't know what I would call the first part of my trip if I were to write a similar book. WALK, maybe? SEE, possibly? I really haven't "eaten" my way across Europe. Although I enjoy food, I am not much of a lover or connoisseur of food. Unless I was to do a trip about eating my weight in oatmeal raisin cookies as I traversed the world, but I don't think that would be very smart or possible. I don't think the experience Gilbert had in Italy is any thing like what I have gone through the past three months. She seemed to clam down a bit more than I have. I am different now than I was when I started, but I haven't honestly enjoyed every minute of this trip so far. There have definitely been times when I wanted to turn around and go right home, but I have decided to fight on, trying to enjoy the experience in front of me. Gilbert loves food, so what she did in Italy was perfect for her. I think maybe if I was to do a journey like hers, I would have to watch theatre everyday for four months straight. I have come to realize on this trip how much I love what I do and how much I miss it. Being in London, watching shows every night, and having people to discuss it with was just an absolute joy for me. I felt at home again. I felt in my comfort zone.

The next two months will more than likely fly by. Not as much time, but just as many things to see, it will definitely go by in the blink of an eye. I am nothing but excited and feeling a bit adventurous.
Me with Sophie and Andrew (the kids I met in Vienna and ran into again on the streets of Prague) having a pint at a traditional Czech restaurant.
Nick and me in Regents Park in London. Note the cool eyeware.
Shelly, Lauren, and me at Covent Garden in London.
Me on the walking tour in Berlin. Try and find me.